Rapport Hebdomadaire - Week 2

If week one felt like a whirlwind, where we were able to hit the ground running right from the airplane, actively socialize and partaking in the many joys of Paris, week two has felt a little bit more like the shift towards real "real life".

Often it is hard to remember that this is not an extended vacation, but rather our new home. It has felt like something we have had to struggle with as we aim to implement new norms for our daily life and schedule - and at the same time adjust to a limited budget as we adjust to our new freelance work schedule (and me having to cut back drastically to accommodate school). To help ban a vacation mentality, we regimentally set our alarms for 6am wake-up calls and working for 4-5 hours every morning on our freelance work. Joey, like any artist who visits Paris, has been automatically struck by the aesthetics of Paris and has commenced not only on some amazing casual sketches, but also on a potential new series inspired by our current surroundings. I too am enjoying immense mental clarity, and look forward to rolling out a new business plan for my freelance work in the coming months. We also diligently began to add 30-60 minutes of french studies to each day using apps as we continue to search for a class here in Paris that would be an ideal fit for our schedules. 

While work was a priority, we also made sure to spend our afternoons exploring neighborhoods, historic sites, and local institutions. Sometimes these outings were neatly planned, but others happened organically. When historic, tourist and iconic sites lie in nearly every corner of a city, it is easy for one's daily errands to turn into a tourist outing. This happened to us on Tuesday, as we continued by search for a bicycle and we headed to 18 Velo Vintage. We arrived to the shop too early (they do not open till 5pm on weekdays), and suddenly found ourselves with a couple hours to kill. Instead of turning around and coming back at another time, we decided to enjoy nearby Montmartre and Sacré Coeur - a mere 17 minute walk from the shop. We proceeded to walk up the hill, which was not crowded during the off season (much more pleasant than the chaos of the summer) and we proceeded to sit in the church (a first for both of us - I had never been inside!) as Joey sketched the famed architecture. While there are institutions and sites galore in San Francisco, it never occurred to me to take advantage of these sites more often when I was in the area. Or maybe that is what happens when you live in a place for a long time - I used to say I was just "jaded" to San Francisco, but maybe in some ways I was taking it for granted. Being in a new place, it feels effortless to want to take advantage of things when they are near. Like an afternoon stroll we took through Jardin du Luxembourg - a mere 10 minute jaunt from our doorstep.

It has been such a pleasure getting to share these moments with Joey, and to experience Paris in the off season. While the chill and rain do not allow for those leisurely days sitting in the park - it is a fantastic time to walk and experience the city. Everything feels a little calmer, and I have to keep reminding myself that the "tourist storm" will be here soon this summer.

We also got rather ambitious this week in our goals for food shopping, as we explored some of the traditional indoor markets of Paris. I have to admit we were sadly disappointed. I think living in California you take for granted how you can get seasonal produce all year round from very close proximity. When shopping at our weekly farmers markets in San Francisco, farmers come directly to the market and sell what they have in season. Even when in Spain or Morocco, their markets are abundant with produce of the moment - but France has something these places do not: A real winter. Joey and I went from stall to stall at the St. Germain Indoor Market and the San Quentin Market (the largest indoor market in Paris). We kept seeing the same vendor produce, brought in from other countries. We were terribly disappointed, and ended up buying very little beyond an eggplant and some nice garlic. At the moment our theory is we will have to wait for Spring to experience the bountiful markets we had envisioned - but if you have any advice, please let us know below! The other theory is that we have become the thing we dreaded: California Snobs.

As it was my last week before school, we did tack on some special outings. We took a "tourist" day, with Joey selecting the Paris Catacombs as the first site he wanted to see. He said his decision was in part because I talked it up so much...and it's true. If you ask me to list my favorite "tourist attractions" of Paris, the Catacombs always makes the top three. This trip we stuck to my usual protocol: 1) Get there early before opening (Busy season, get there 45-60 minutes early; Off season, get there 20-30 minutes early) 2) Send someone over to the corner bakery (there is a "Paul's" bakery nearby - which is a nice french chain) and get croissants and coffee to enjoy while waiting. 3) If you have done number 1 right, you should get in right with the first group! - I should note that it looks like you can book tickets in advance if you are certain of when you will go. If you are winging it - follow my advice, and you will be fine.

While I have visited the catacombs often, this time was different, and reminded me why I love dating an artist. As we walked through the labyrinth of human remains, Joey asked if we could sit so he could sketch. This is a common request when we travel (and in our daily lives), and usually as he sketches I will read to him about the history of the space - but deep underground I had no cellphone service, so we both sat in silence. The crowds would pass, and we would have extended moments of what began as an eerie quiet, but then turned into this immense sense of calm. We sat in silence for 45 minutes (well, near silence - we had a delightful conversation with a woman visiting from Kentucky who was in Paris for the first time celebrating her 90th birthday with her grandson. She was literally #lifegoals). While I often walk out of the catacombs slightly depressed, thinking about my own mortality and how individualism is a sham - this time I felt really calm. I thought much more about the interconnectedness of us all. And how immortality of body and notoriety/fame is a futile pursuit, it does not mean we do not matter. (*Note - be ready for some lofty existential thoughts when you visit this place!)

That night we celebrated with a iconic French crepes from the only place to go in Paris: La Creperie de Josselin. When in France, one must eat crepes - but if you want the real deal while in Paris, with no time to travel to Brittany, this is the only place to go. Their buckwheat crepes (also known as galettes) are crispy with butter - of which you will see mountains of piled high in the open kitchen. While we calmly waited for a table (the line moves quickly in this no-nonsense, brisk paced restaurant), Joey asked what I recommended. I immediately said "The smoked salmon crepe". "And what else?" he asks. And...I could not think. It had been three years since I had been to the restaurant, but why couldn't I think of anything else? I was quickly reminded - because I never ordered anything else! The smoked salmon crepe is exceptional, and a clear winner. Joey ordered a spinach and bacon one, that was a good reminder that you cannot go wrong here. We then proceeded to Le 10 BAR Odeon for 5 euro sangria (with cinnamon being their special ingredient) in this cozy, relaxed bar. The jukebox plays classic hits, and it's easy to lose track of time as we chatted the night away. We look forward to coming back here with friends as it felt like an ideal place for drinks and good discourse with friends. 

Joey returned to the USA today, to wrap up some personal things, and I am taking this time to mentally prepare for school to start (I will write a separate blog about orientation that occurred this week). This shift from vacation to real-life is feeling complete as we look forward to trying to strike a balance between our personal and work goals - and taking in everything Paris has to offer. 

Highlight of the Week: While there were many highlights, Joey can attest that I could not stop grinning over crepes - it has been so long since I have gotten to enjoy one of my favorite foods in the world! (I also want to share Joey's highlight: 

Challenge of the Week: Finding a bike for me! We have been to store after store - and I cannot find a bike to meet my needs.  Any recommendations?

The List of the Week

Restaurants

La Creperie de Josselin (14th) week two - Best crepes in Paris. That's basically all you need to know. (Oh, prepare to wait in a slight line - but it moves quickly!)

Le Cepage Montmartois (18th) week two - I have frequented this cafe, and it continues to be a great spot if you are in the area to get off the beaten (tourist) road. It is ideal for chats with friends, reading a book or working.

Le Porte-Pot (5th) week two - Located in the hub of the touristy Latin Quarter, this french restaurant is targeted to tourists and locals a like. With english speaking waiters and menus, along with a good selection of french classics - this is not a bad option if you are in the area trying to determine which of the nearly identical restaurants to pick from. The port stew special was nice, but a little dry. My boudin noir was classically predated with mash potatoes and roasted apple. The house wine was solid. While I do not think we were blown away by anything, it was a solid restaurant and experience if you are wanting to eat in that area. 

Bars

Le 10 BAR Odeon (6th) week two - What a charming find! If you are looking for good drinks (at reasonable prices) with friends in a casual environment - this is an ideal place to go. The sangria is the real star - and be sure to bring money for the jukebox! 

Markets

Marche St. Germain (6th) week two - This small market is hidden behind an Apple Store, but has beautiful stalls for meat, cheese and even flowers. They also have a couple food stalls for take-away. While we did not purchase any groceries here (it was dead early in the morning) and would not recommend this if you are simply a tourist, we will probably try and go back to try the thai food stall! 

Marche San Quentin (3rd) week two -The largest indoor market in Paris offers a variety of produce, cheese and meat stalls was dead on a Tuesday morning (we will have to go back another time), but seems to offer a lot of options. Again, would not recommend if you are just visiting as a tourist. 

Shops

18 Velo Vintage (18th) week two - This small shop is incredible, and clearly a passion project for the owner. If you are into vintage bikes, or passionate about cycling - this is not to be missed. Joey wanted to purchase everything, but sadly we have no space! 

Rougier & Ple (All Over!) week two - This art store chain is a great place to find any art supplies you could possibly want while in Paris for fair prices. If you are visiting the city - think about popping in, grabbing a sketch book, and living out your Parisian artist fantasy sketching the sites.