Willkommen und Auf Wiedersehen - A Quick 36 Hours In Berlin

“Oh, I know you. You're soft, like most men. You make up romances about people instead of seeing them as they are.” It was quotes like this that quickly endeared me to Christopher Isherwood's Berlin Stories when I first read the book at 14 years of age. I had already endeared myself to Liza Minelli's Sally Bowles and kept a bottle of green nail polish always on hand, in hopes of emulating her (even though my mother told me it looked like I had infected nails when I wore it). While this quote was directed at a person, the effects of romanticizing can impact anything - in particular places. Paris is often a place people romanticize, and in some ways it lives up to the hype. Berlin for me was ...perhaps romanticized is not the right word, but rather built up in my head - and just like Paris it too lived up to much of the expectation.

I woke up early on Saturday morning to take the RER to Orly Airport, where I would take EasyJet to Berlin. I fell into a classic American folly - arriving at the airport far too early, forgetting that a flight from France to Germany does NOT count as international travel. Luckily Orly has been built out with an assortment of name brand cafes and shops, allowing for me to grab a tea and croissant as I waited for check-in to begin. On a quick side note, one thing that continually happens in France whenever I present my passport is someone makes an Alex Baldwin joke. Is he really that popular here? Let me know in the comments below...

I easily slept through the quick 2 hour flight, and when I awoke I had but little time to gaze out the window at some beautiful lakes and high sloped roofs lightly covered in frost. It was very naive, but all I could think was "How German this all looks." While some countries have grown into a more homogenized architectural feel, Berlin's architecture lived up to everything I had studied in art history, and feels distinctly German in nature. It remains a beautifully layered city where you feel like an archeologist as you clearly identify the era each layer was added. 

I met my long time friend and travel companion Rolfe (a very germanic name, for my very Filipino friend) at the airport, as his flight in from the United States landed just before mine - and we hopped on the train from Schoenefeld Airport to the Mitte neighborhood. Rolfe and I have been friends for almost ten years, after meeting at my Halloween party in 2008. When he told me he would be in Germany for six weeks for a variety of vocal audition and competitions, I quickly invited myself along for his first weekend in Berlin. I was eager to lean into this experience of living in Europe, and being able to hop from country to country with ease. Coming from America, it is such a novel concept. We do not even hop from state to state on the weekends, unless you are in the Northeast. 

We arrived at Hackescher Markt desperate for something to eat, and were pleasantly surprised to find a myriad of food stands ranging in traditional german to middle eastern cuisine. For 3 euros we indulged in delicious afghani wraps, which we munched on as we walked to Generator Hostel. Generator is a company I have been interested in for several years, with their trendy decor and well placed locations. We arrived at the Mitte Berlin location with great ease and found check-in fun and easy. We received some great, specific recommendations from the front desk employees, plopped our bags in our assigned bunks in one of the shared dorms (which were very clean, with all the necessary features, including individual lights, outlets, and fresh linen daily) and quickly headed out the door to begin exploring. 

As we made our way along the river to Brandenburg Tor, the Reichstag dome came into view - I was reminded how much I loved that structure in my architectural studies and was struck about how it was even more beautiful in person. We waited in line at the registration booth (located across the street next to the pavilion cafe and shop, in a small white booth - You can also register online) and were able to secure a spot to view the tour the following morning. These viewings are free, but you have to register in advance at the booth with your passport. We were told guided tours are booked out six weeks out - but in all honesty I do not think such a tour is necessary....More on that below when I discuss our experience. 

We then walked to the Brandenburg Tor, and enjoyed an epic sunset. Seeing it at dusk, with the lights shining upon the grand structure only heightens the drama. It felt like the ideal time to take in its neo-classic grandeur. From there we headed to dinner at Stadklause, where for under 13 euro a person we feasted on massive plates of schnitzel and meatballs - and washed it down with local beer and terrific banter with the servers. It set the bar high for the rest of our dining experiences as the quality was exceptional and the atmosphere cozy, warm and friendly - perfect on a freezing winter night. We then managed to cross town with an invitation to join a small house party of a friend of Rolfe's. It was a perfect menagerie of artists, scientists, musicians and free-spirits - the conversation was lively and a group of complete strangers quickly felt at ease with each other as we sat on the floor of a small apartment kitchen, in a grafitti laced apartment building. This was the Berlin I had heard so much of - a place that brings together those who still dream of those bohemian days Isherwood described in his books. It is still very much alive and well - and even the most cynical person cannot help but be inspired by it.

We easily collapsed into bed that first night, eager to recharge as much as possible in time for our sunrise appointment at the Reichstag dome. While the morning came quickly, waking up early was worth it for the visit to the dome. We arrived promptly on time with our passports and the letter we received from the registration office, where we went through security with relative ease. We then proceeded with the rest of our group to the top of the dome, where you are guided by a sensor activated audio-guide. As someone who nerds out about such systems, and the experiential value of such things, this one was exceptional. It expertly paced the crowd, provided engaging information and gave context that enriched the overall visit. I would highly recommend visiting this site early on in your visit to Berlin as it gives you not only exceptional views of the city, but also information that helps you piece together the extensive history of this town. 

The Reichstag dome for me is an excellent example of modern architecture where the form, function and concept come together in perfect harmony. Finished in 1999, Norman Foster's design is not only aesthetically beautiful, but is a representation of the lessons learned in WWII. The glass dome sits above the debating chamber of the Bundestag, the German parliament, allowing the public to look in. This symbolizes that the people are above the government and emphasizes transparency, qualities that were missing during National Socialism.

From there we visited Check Point Charlie, where we took out time to read the extensive panels on the history of this space - especially the personal stories of those who have died seeking freedom from oppression. Such stories were sharply contrasted with giggling tourists, paying to take photos with performers dressed up as Soviet and American soldiers. I do not want to get on a soap box - but one thing that repeatedly perplexes me when I look at case studies about photography in museum and historical settings, and as we embrace this "Instagram Era", is the lack of sanctity people now feel about places. That photography has taken priority over the experience and the opportunity to contemplate. Readers, what are your thoughts on this? Am I overreacting? 

Contemplation continued to be the theme of the morning, as we visited the Jewish Museum. While I have strong feelings about Daniel Libeskind's style and work (I think of him more as a talented sculptor, more so than an architect as I feel his structures lack the utilitarian necessities to qualify for exceptional architecture), I feel that this was one of his most successful works as the institution has clearly embraced the work as sculptural, and the space focuses on the experiential more so than exhibition driven. The sharp turns, vast voids, and angles that make you feel off kilter inspire emotions that delicately translate the essence of the persecution and exile. While many of the permanent exhibitions were under reconstruction while we were there, we were able to take in the Libeskind addition and the "Welcome to Jerusalem" exhibition. This institution is clearly a must see on your first visit to Berlin - but as it does not have actively changing exhibitions, I am not sure it will be on my list to return immediately. 

After a busy morning, we had worked up an extensive appetite and proceeded to wait 20 minutes for Mustafa's Gemuse Kebab. I am told we had a pretty speedy wait time, as the lines go up to an hour in the summer - but it was worth it! For under four euros we got massive vegetarian sandwiches, overflowing with delicious roasted vegetables that hit the spot on a cold day. This food stand continued to prove that Berlin is an ideal city for being able to eat exceptionally well for very little! With no tables, we quickly chowed-down in the cold, before hopping back on the train for the hostel to defrost the icicles that had become my feet and to take a nap before dinner. 

To kick-off our last night, we started with cocktails at The Green Door. This "speakeasy meets 1960's chic" bar is repeatedly named one of the best in the city, and it did not disappoint. As it was a Sunday night, it was incredibly relaxed - with perfect mood lighting and a very sexy feel, we could not help but remark how this would be an ideal place for a date. Although cocktails were in the 14-18 euro range, they were worth it as they were true pieces of art: well balanced, while still capturing complex flavors. We could of easily spent hours there (and plenty of money), but our tummies were once again rumbling, so we proceeded to dinner at Dicke Wirtin - a lively and busy german restaurant where we ate exceptional blood and liver sausage and downed the last of the german beer for this trip. It felt like the perfect end to this mini vacation.

Berlin is a city of immense and complex history. It is a place where genuine bohemia still finds pockets to thrive, and where you can easily flow to other echelons of society all in one day. It is impossible to experience it all in 36 hours - it is also impossible to experience it all in winter (having to warm my icicle toes took away some of our time) - but just like any great romanticized city, you can't wait to get back for more.

The Short List

Restaurants

Stadklause - One word: SCHNITZEL. Do it!

Mustafa's Gemuse Kebab - While many debate whether the wait is worth it - I am going to say it is. Hard to beat all that yumminess for that cheap of a price. We went vegetarian - and would highly recommend it, even for all you carnivores out there

Dicke Wirtin - The name translates to the "Fat Landlady", which is fitting name for this traditional german restaurant. With it's large portions, warm and friendly atmosphere - you cannot help but fall in love with this place.

Bars & Cafes

The Green Door - Ring the doorbell to this speakeasy style entrance, and transport yourself to a Don Draper fantasy filled with rich wood, leather and expert cocktails. 

The Barn (Coffee Shop) - We visited the one in Mitte, and quickly became addicted to it's exceptional product and hipster vibes. If you are looking for exceptional pour-over coffee and espresso, this is the place to come. My one regret? Not buying a bag of their coffee beans. 

Lodging

Generator Hostels Berlin Mitte - For less than 20 euro a night, you can nab a bed in this trendy and centrally located hostel. They provide linens and towels (and impeccable service!) - but be sure to bring your own lock for your box (We forgot ours, but everything was perfectly safe). Highly recommend.