Mont Saint Michel: A Weekend Back In Time

After finals, I needed to get away. Far away....

What better way to do this than to travel back in time - to a medieval town that has inspired sci-fi and fantasy writers, filmmakers and designers for centuries? Mont Saint Michel is this place - filled with natural and man-made beauty that is simply "awe" inspiring. But with such legendary qualities, it of course possess something else: Loads and LOADS of tourists! 

While it truly is a worthwhile trip , either as a day trip or an overnight stay, you must prepare yourself for the crowds (even in the off season) - but here are some tips to make the trip a success:

Getting There - With plenty of trains taking you to shuttle points, getting to Mont Saint Michel is incredibly easy - even if you do not speak any french! We took the train from Montparnasse to , Villedieu-les-Poeles and then a bus (45 min) to the parking lot of Mont Saint Michel's parking lot where we took the shuttle directly to the gates of the historic town. On the day of our return we were scheduled to take the late afternoon bus to Rennes, however, we felt like we had seen everything we wanted to see in Mont Saint Michel (more on that later). We arrived at the bus for the morning departure, and the driver was happy to accept our tickets for that earlier ride as she had space. Whether this is normally an option, I do not know - but it allowed us to spend the day exploring the historic streets of Rennes (and to eat delicious crepes) before boarding our direct train there for Paris. If you are ready to move on sooner, like we were, I say this is worth a shot!

The tickets were a little bit pricier than I expected. I had read on blogs you could get there for 50 euro per a person. Instead, we found ourselves paying 100 euro per a person. I do not know if this is just because we were going for a weekend (Saturday to Sunday) - but we sucked it up and paid the price because we really wanted to see it before the summer high-season.

What To See - Upon arriving to Mont Saint Michel, the busloads of visitors create blockage points as they make their pilgrimage up the hill to the great abbey. Get off the beaten path, and explore various nooks and crannies. You really can't get lost as the town is very small, and all paths lead back to the abbey - even if it's a scenic, windy route. 

The pièce de résistance is of course the abbey. The structure lived up to the hype, and is clearly rich with history. The space has very limited signage, so I do recommend either downloading information on your phone (the cell service there is non existent) or splurging on the audio guide. Joey and I braved the cold, and even took time to sit for extended periods of time to site and draw. 

Sadly, the sites at Mont Saint Michel are limited, and fill only about a day. If you do not have a car, you still have options as to what to see. For us, we headed to Rennes early before our train to explore the old medieval streets. It was wonderful to walk along the historic roads and see the crooked wood buildings that are a delightful contradiction with their old architecture and modern tenants/shops that inhabit them. It's a great town to grab a couple crepes and drink a couple beers (or pitchers of cidre) and relax before your train home to Paris.

What To Eat - If I was to give one piece of advice: BRING YOUR OWN WATER/DRINKS WITH YOU! Small bottles of water start at 2 euros! With little to no competition on the island, restaurants and vending machines alike charge exorbitant amounts for food and drink. We carried in a baguette, some pate and a bottle of wine which we ate right outside the abbey. Not only could we not beat the cost-savings - the view was unbelievable. 

If you are looking for a restaurant, there truly is only one place to go: La Ferme Saint-Michel. This farm-to-table restaurant just outside Mont Saint Michel serves excellent dishes for all budgets. I took the Pilgrim prix-fixe for 20 euro, and feasted on their signature carrot soup (not to be missed - luckily for my partner they also gave it to us as an amuse bouche. It was so good, I did not mind having it as my amuse bouche AND my appetizer), a wonder sliced of roasted ham with root vegetables and a sweet apple cake. Highly recommend - quality food and good price (two things that were hard to find on the island). 

Where To Stay - Mont Saint Michel is great for a day trip. Catch the early train, take the early evening one back. With this strategy, however, you will be right in the storm of the masses of tourists. One of the most magical times at Mont Saint Michel is at sunrise - when things still feel calm and you practically have it to yourself. Waking up at 6am, and going out onto the dam to watch the sunrise was the highlight of the trip.

We stayed at Hotel Vert. It's a bare-bones situation, but with clean sheets, good water-pressure and excellent location (right off the shuttle stop) we were thrilled with our time there. The staff was also incredibly helpful, and for 60 euros a night - it was an unbeatable price for the area. There was genuinely nothing better than taking a hot bath to regain my body temperature after exploring in the cold all day - so I may be a bit biased in my high opinion.

While I highly recommend going in the off season to avoid the peak crowds, if you are able to go during nicer weather (i.e. high-season) I would encourage you to utilize the local camp grounds if you can get a spot and have the equipment. The lots are well maintained and perfectly situated (right next to Hotel Vert)

The List

La Ferme Saint-Michel - This farm-to-table serves great food at reasonable prices. With reservations available (and recommended), it's easy to plan your lunch or dinner here. Don't miss their signature carrot soup. 

Hotel Vert - Straight forward, clean and easily accessible - it's a great place to rest for a reasonable price.

Le Scoop - Cute bar in Rennes filled with locals. Was a good spot to enjoy a beer and people watch.

L'Epi de Ble - Looking for a good bite to eat between trains? This creperie next to the train station in Rennes is ideal for lunch. Solid crepes, good cidre and quick service.