Rapport Hebdomadaire - Week 1

My last 24 hours in San Francisco flew quicker than I expected, in part thanks to my friends who made sure to fill my last couple days in the city with dancing at the Tonga Room, the infamous punch bowls at Hobson's Choice and soup dumplings at Yank Sing. By the time the car came for us, I was ready to go. Zipping along the streets of San Francisco, I was not sad like I was a week ago. Instead I felt a calm I have not felt in a long time - all my planning had lead to this moment, and I just wanted to enjoy the ride.

Flying on New Years Eve was a breeze: No traffic to the airport, no lines for check-in, no lines at TSA. We quickly found ourselves sitting in the Air France Lounge sipping champagne after checking FOUR bags and ONE bicycle. For me and Joey, this felt incredibly extravagant as we typically prefer to simply travel with a small carry-on backpack (it really is the best way to go!). However, considering we packed for a year, we are pretty proud we got it down so small (though to be fair, my mother kept saying "I don't think you are bringing enough...I really don't think you are..." until she felt how heavy the bags were!)

Joey and I are notorious for liking to be at the airport early (3 hours for international, 2 hours for domestic - those rules have been beaten into our brain...and have rung true after being burned occasionally by cutting it close). With no traffic or lines, we had a good chunk of time to relax, draw, read and write. I feel it is much easier to completely relax after going through TSA, etc. than before - Is anyone else like that?

For our Christmas present, my mother was kind enough to treat us to Business Class seats - and I have to confess it was the best New Years Eve we have ever had. Between eating lobster and binging on champagne, we started 2018 in real style. While Joey and I do well traveling in many methods (economy seats, crowded buses, boats, etc.), we were able to sleep so well and Business Class and landed in France ready to hit the ground running in 2018 in our new home.

Our car pickup had canceled right before the flight (I do not want to get into it, but working with Euroscope car service was very disappointing despite their well reviewed status online), but we were able to easily get a large van at CDG to take us into Paris (go past the taxi line, near door 16 - there are loads of large vans to suit people with a lot of luggage or a large party). At this point my head was beginning to hurt as my brain began to switch between english and french. It was working in overdrive as this language muscle I have not used in two years started to be stretched again. It was exciting, but frustrating - as vocabulary I used to know so well were just out of my grasp still....literally on the tip of my tongue. It has continued to come back this week - and I am excited to get back to studying intensely.

My mother was staying at Hotel Le Senat - one of my favorite spots in the city as it is located next to the Jardin du Luxembourg - and it proved to be a great landing spot. They stored Joey's bike and our bags till we were able to check in to our apartment at 5pm. It also gave us the luxury of moving in slowly, as our apartment is on the 5th floor (to be clear - the FIFTH floor by French standards is a SIXTH floor apartment by USA as the French count the bottom floor as zero, not one). Carrying heavy bags up the narrow stairs was the biggest workout of our lives - but once we were in, we immediately felt at home in our new cozy home. The place lived up to all the photos, and the location near Notre Dame has been a wonderful place to start, not just because we enjoy hearing all the church bells, but the location is so central. In many ways, it feels like living on Haight Street. While it gets slammed with tourists, we are already starting to discover the local spots. And nothing beats the early mornings and late nights in the neighborhood when you have the area all to yourself.

We proceeded to spend the next couple days getting organized and picking up little things to help fill in some gaps at our fully furnished apartment - most importantly a Brita water filter, which they carry at most of the Monoprix in the city (#protip). We also worked tirelessly to find a secure spot for Joey's bike. While there is no room in apartment building, and we are not able to carry it up the narrow stairwell, we have been able to get secured storage at at a local parking garage. If you are in a similar situation to us in Paris (no bike storage), check out your local parking garages. Many have storage options at reasonable monthly rates ranging from 10-20 euros a month.

Running errands from the Latin Quarter was a breeze, with it's central location putting us in walking distance to everything from the ever reliable Monoprix (similar to a small city Target) to H&M home at Forum des Halles. The only deterrent has been the horrendous weather! It has been windy and pouring rain (while assembling his bicycle, Joey got hit by a wind-blown trash can!). The Seine is flooding, and we sadly were passing by during the horrific incident of a missing police woman next to our house. While it has been warmer than expected here, we have three months of winter - and for a couple of California kids, this is most certainly a new experience (I have grown too soft since my childhood in Colorado)

And while our days were occupied getting settled this week, we have been able to get in a lot of social time with friends from San Francisco. On January 2nd we had the pleasure of having drinks at La Closerie Des Lilas with my friend from college Erin and her husband Sean who were visiting Paris for a few days. We then were able to grab coffee and lunch with Joey's good friend Tara who has been living in Paris for the past four years on Thursday. And Friday night ended with a bang at the fabulous Saint James Hotel with long-overdue drinks with my friend Kristen, who just returned to the USA after living in Paris for two years. We even had an opportunity to go bouldering at Arkose Nation and go bicycle shopping for me.

Between the organization, the socializing and the avoidance of tourist attractions we are beginning to see a semblance of a life here - and for both me and Joey this glimmer has been really uplifting and exciting. The next week will be our last week together before Joey returns to the States for a short period of time, and will mostly be filled with work - but I look forward to updating you guys again next weekend! 

HIGHLIGHT OF THE WEEK: Walking everywhere and sharing Paris with Joey - also getting to see so many friends in one week!

CHALLENGE OF THE WEEK: Coming to grips with the price of peanut butter here (15 euros a jar?!?) and figuring out how Joey can smuggle in a year supply next month. (Also, and maybe more importantly, setting a schedule and reminding myself this is not a vacation has been really hard)

The List of the Week

Restaurants

Au Petite Suisse (6th) week one - While I had stopped by this charming cafe near Jardin du Luxembourg in the past for some wine and charcuterie, it proved to be a perfect place to grab dinner on New Years day, our first day in Paris. With traditional fair, we dined on rabbit in mustard sauce, steak & fries and pork with ratatouille. This is one of the better spots near the garden to stop and enjoy a slow leisurely drink and a bite. 

La Ferrandaise (6th) week one - This has long been one of my top recommendations to visitors, and having just visited it again in my first week in Paris, it will continue to be. This is an ideal place to enjoy a modern French meal. The menu is a prix fix - so be prepared for a full evening that includes new menus to reflect what is currently in season. For those who do not speak French, this restaurant carries English menus and the waiters are very helpful. One thing not to miss is their fois gras.

Bars

Le Piano Vache (5th) week one - I think Joey has found his favorite bar in Paris, or at least a strong contender. With it's moody atmosphere and walls covered in band posters and old passport photos, this seems like an ideal place to grab a chill drink. We also know that they host bands, so we look forward to going back for a show. If you like what would be classified as a "dive bar" in San Francisco (a la Benders Bar & Grill) - this would be the place for you.

La Closerie Des Lilas (6th) week one - While Joey loves a good dive bar, I love a bar that captures some nostalgia and romanticism of a bygone era when cocktails were at their prime. La Closerie Des Lilas is the prime example of this. While cocktails are a little pricey, it is worth it to sit in the same seats Hemingway and Fitzgerald sat creating some of their most iconic work, all with the backdrop of a charming piano player. 

Le Bar Bibliothèque at Saint James (16th) week one - This was an incredible discovery shared with me by my friend Kristen. If you are looking for an impressive place to take a date for an intimate drink, this is it. Surrounded with rich wood bookcases and luxurious leather couches, this place just screams for champagne or scotch - which they have extensive lists for both. Drinks are pricey - but we did not mind slowly sipping our drinks and taking in the atmosphere till closing around 1:30am. 

Rock Climbing

Arkose Nation (20th) week one - This was our first introduction to rock climbing gyms in Paris, and it is clearly a great community spot with 2 bouldering rooms, a cafe and a children's climbing area. Upon entering you will check in and the staff will open a tab for you. You will then pay at the end for your day pass, plus any coffees, etc you may purchase. The bouldering walls offered numerous problems, though not necessarily suitable for beginner climbers (which I am). While we will not be getting a membership here, it may be a great place to go in the future when we have friends in town who enjoy climbing.